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[Build Help] Looking for Advice on Parts and Build

Build Help/Ready:

First off, I wanted to say that I have never build a pc before, only replaced parts in rebuild ones and my biggest fear is installing the cpu onto the motherboard.
Next, I wanted to know if anything I have now is even usable in my next build, such as my psu or ram.
My current computer is the HP Pavilion p6710f with these parts replaced in it:
RAM: Kingston 2x4 1333, PSU: Xion 800W, GPU: GTX 260 2GB, Monitor: Acer 23"
Have you read the sidebar and rules? (Please do)
Yes I have read the rules. I was going to look for assembly guides when I got my parts bought, but with a guide staring me in the face I couldn't resist.
What is your intended use for this build? The more details the better.
Mainly I have gaming in mind, I know for a fact my current pc can't handle Witcher3, MGS5, GTA5 or any of the newer high end games. However, the game that made me question if I should upgrade was ARK and my extremely hot room from my current computer. Also, I will need to run multisim and matlab and potentially autocad in the future.
If gaming, what kind of performance are you looking for? (Screen resolution, FPS, game settings)
For resolution I have to say that I play at 1980x1080 for games that are immersive single player experiences. However, I mostly like to play games in windowed mode at 1280x(720, 960, or 1024) resolution while watching/listening to something on the rest of my monitor. Answering this question actually made me wonder if I needed a wider monitor.
For the other two I would like 60 and high settings.
What is your budget (ballpark is okay)?
The budget I have set for myself is up to USD 1,100. However, if need be I can spend more. I would exclude a monitor from this list as I believe it would last longer than the pc I am trying to build.
In what country are you purchasing your parts?
Post a draft of your potential build here (specific parts please). Consider formatting your parts list. Don't ask to be spoonfed a build (read the rules!).
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type Item Price
CPU Intel Xeon E3-1231 V3 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor -
Motherboard MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard $77.98 @ Newegg
Memory G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory $74.99 @ Newegg
Storage Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $43.20 @ SuperBiiz
Storage Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $52.99 @ Newegg
Video Card Sapphire Radeon R9 380 4GB Nitro Video Card $213.98 @ Newegg
Case Fractal Design Define R5 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case $97.99 @ SuperBiiz
Power Supply Antec High Current Gamer 520W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply $67.96 @ Amazon
Case Fan Fractal Design GP14-WT 68.4 CFM 140mm Fan $13.50 @ SuperBiiz
Case Fan Fractal Design GP14-WT 68.4 CFM 140mm Fan $13.50 @ SuperBiiz
Monitor LG 25UM57-P 60Hz 25.0" Monitor $179.00 @ B&H
Other Xeon $209.99
Other Windows 8.1 Pro for Students $69.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts
Total (before mail-in rebates) $1125.07
Mail-in rebates -$10.00
Total $1115.07
Generated by PCPartPicker 2015-09-04 12:39 EDT-0400
Provide any additional details you wish below.
  • I am not interested in overclocking because i don't want to wear my parts down and reduce their life expectancy.
  • I believe all I will ever use is one GPU and I would like a LED Debugger on my motherboard.
  • I am unsure if I should get the Sapphire nitro 380 or the MSI 380. Or if I should get a 390. Which would suit me better?
  • I have been thinking of upgrading to skylake, but I wanted to wait for a cpu a cheaper locked cpu and a motherboard that doesn't support overclocking.
  • On another point, is the cpu I chose too much and I should down grade to a i5 or is it too weak and I should upgrade to i7?
  • My #1 reason for picking the R5 was because both the dust filters are removable from the front! My only concern with this case is if it will get too hot since I live in nyc and it has been pretty hot these past few summers. However, I guess I can't really tell as my current PC is constantly increasing my room's temperature.
  • That is why I added two fans because I want to put another on the front and one on the bottom as intake, just in case. I am not sure if the fans I picked are good or if I should have chosen different ones.
  • In relation to the case I would like a psu that is small enough that it allows me to put a intake fan on the bottom of the case and its wires don't block it. I ask for this as I have seen builds and some of their psu either completely block that fan slot or the wires overtake that spot.
  • After doing some research I feel like having two 1TB drives is better than having one 2TB drive. I currently have a ST31000528AS drive and am wondering if I only need to buy one new 1TB drive or should I get two new drives.
  • Also, my plan was to buy windows 8.1 pro for students as I am an electrical engineering student, but it seems that it was taken down from the store and I wanted to know if any knew of a cheap windows.
  • Thanks for any responses and for reading, I feel like I have too many questions.
submitted by Wolf_Knight to buildapc

Making a super low cost trainer/dev kit. What do you wish you had in the kits/trainers you used to learn electronics?

Useless Backstory:
My original plan was to design a digital logic trainer for my students that could be submerged in alcohol without damage, to sanitize between classes. I did that and the prototypes work great (Other components for scale)
It's fair to assume the campus will close pretty quickly after the first spikes in covid cases. This means the original design won't be useful, students won't be in to share the equipment. Many departments plan to just gut their lab courses while some plan to throw huge tool/equipment costs at their students for at-home labs. I don't consider removing hands-on work a viable option, and equipment would cost a ton because the school store is terrible as far as where they can get products from, plus it takes its own cut of ~20%. The school store is the only way to pay for things with financial aid, so I have to go through them.
I priced everything out for my original design and discovered the board is so unbelievably cheap ($22 vs the $350 we pay for just ONE of the trainers the students use) that I plan to just make a new version that also includes all the features from the analog, processor, and plc trainers. Should cover everything from learning ohm's law to designing and testing amplifiers, from digital logic through assembly language up to C++/Python, from relay/ladder logic to PLC programming.
To the point:
For reference, here's a google image search of what I am designing a replacement for. Click on some at random and check the prices and specs. There's no reason they should cost hundreds. The ones that don't cost a ton are just switches and buttons and leds wired to headers - something anyone here can do for $10.
My goal is to add all the features from every single trainer I've seen/used but keep below 10% of the price of what is currently available. Each unit of equipment my students use (scopes, generators, supplies, digital/analog trainers, processor boards, plcs, etc) cost the department $5k+, and that's even after I got them to approve sparkfun as a vendor to save money. Assuming the students pick up shitty, low spec versions of everything for doing their labs at home, we're still looking at $1k. I like <$100 better, and would like the students to have something they can continue using to learn/develop electronics even after graduation.
So far I'm at $48 per trainer, completely assembled and in a case and I'm just about ready to make the next batch of prototypes but want to know what additional features I should cram into it.
What should I add that isn't listed below?
(1)+/- 19V 3A isolated supply
(2)+/- 5V 1.5A supplies
(1) 19V variable supply
(1) Constant-current linear regulated supply
(2) CV/CC switchmode supplies (fairly well filtered)
Power input is by default USB-C 20V/100W but I got impatient waiting on the USB-C sockets to come in the mail and rigged one up with a laptop DC jack (19.5V) for testing. I liked it. Most people have a box of old adapters in their house so I might just throw empty spots all around the back edge with the traces and pads for 10 different types of sockets so that anyone can use any supply they have lying around within the 18-34v 3A+ range. It already has overvoltage/undervoltage/overcurrent protection, adding a receiver for laptop signal pins that tell the system what the power brick is rated for would be easy.
There's also a USB micro-b port that can power everything but the analog supplies. It is also used for reprogramming firmware in the event of serious corruption, but updates and changes by default occur over wifi.
(1) 500mA Isolated Function Generator (12.5Mhz)
(1) function generator that acts as a 16.5V 1A CT transformer output (max 1mhz)
(2) digital clocks (1hz - 40khz)
(1) digital clock (1khz to 200mhz)
(24) 50mA 3-state digital outputs, protected from short circuits to any other line on the board, including the analog voltages. Each is configurable to a switch, button, low frequency clock, or tied to the PLC emulator or processor used for teaching programming.
Wifi/Bluetooth, USB client and host, Modbus TCP/IP, Modbus RTU, CAN bus, i2c, i2s, spi, plus anything slow enough to be bitbanged will also be available as a feature through the UI, but not have a dedicated port. For example, you can load a 1-24 bit binary string in through the switches and shift it into 74000 series shift registers.
(4) Multimeters with 10mV precision, two of which are differential and isolated.
(24) 3-state digital inputs (+/- 20V capable, configurable logic levels)
(2) analog inputs (1Msps) - I hesitate to call it an oscilloscope because the next revision will include an FPGA that can actually handle huge amounts of data at high frequency. For now it dumps the data to a RAM IC and the main processor grabs a selection of addresses and renders a graph on the screen. There's no interrupts or anything that could get sub-clockcycle measurements on transitions directly from that data.
(2) 100mhz counters with automatic or adjustable trigger.
User Interface:
3.5" color touch screen - while every feature can be accessed from the touch screen, it's mostly for configuring things. I've made sure to put all features as physical buttons, switches, and knobs.
Wifi AP with captive portal - same access as the touch screen, but also used for uploading code to the processors (ASM ide and arduino ide) or PLC emulator (openplc). Working with a friend to help ensure mobile/tablet compatibility.
Bluetooth - available but not currently used.
IC testing with learning function - throw any common DIP chip into a socket and it will test whether it's fried. The UI also allows you to add in new chips, where you define which pins are inputs, outputs, power, ground, oscillator, analog, etc and whether you want it to automatically learn from every possible input configuration or a set sequence of commands. This includes i2c/spi chips.
Programming microcontrollers - throw a dip uC into the same socket as the ic tester and it'll configure itself to whatever pinout you define or select from a list. Already have a USB ISP for AVR but will add loads of ports matching the most popular in-system-programmers.
Matrix I/O sniffing - plug any matrix keypad or matrix led display into the I/O lines and it will automatically map them for you.
Communications sniffing - find IR remote codes, i2c addresses, RF codes, etc without external circuitry.
Compatibility with the Analog Discovery 2, Atmel ICE, LabView/Multisim, and I'm tinkering with SCPI to connect to bench equipment.
PLC Programming through OpenPLC.
Full diagnostic utility with schematic and fault indication through the UI. It will literally tell you what is wrong within a 1 centimetre radius on the board, show you the PCB/silkscreen of the area and optionally the schematic, and tell you what to replace to fix it. I added fault detection with port expanders, analog multiplexers, and dummy loads to help me test my original prototypes. It was supposed to be temporary but the work is already done and only added $5 to the total cost so now it's going to be in every future revision. Not a big jump to add pictures of every subcircuit PCB traces/silkscreen.
As an added note, when I'm done with each set of prototypes I plan to give them away on this subreddit for free, but I want to be sure there's no liability on my part. I'm concerned because all but the last version won't have UL/FCC/CE compliance. If anyone could direct me to information on this sort of thing, I'd really appreciate it. I'm thinking maybe I just directly call them "as-is" or defective or scrap?
submitted by -Mikee to arduino

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